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The majority of woodworking shops, from modest home shops to fully equipped professional shops are centered around a table saw. We call on it so much because it an extremely versatile machine, able to accomplish the variety of tasks associated with any project, from the first rough cuts to precision joinery. The centrality of a table saw to most woodworking shops makes it a critical buying decision, as it’s something you’ll be working with for years to come.
The quality and safety of table saws has greatly improved over the past decade, which is good news both for new buyers, and those looking for an upgrade.
This article will provide you with a wide view of the table-saw market and walk you through some key considerations all buyers face when shopping for a table saw. We’ll start off with figuring out how big of a saw you’ll need. Then, we’ll cover the essential safety and other “must have” features to look for. And finally, we’ll highlight some “nice to have” features. This article will get you headed down the right path.
There have been many changes in table saws over the past few years. From the Underwriter Laboratories’ (UL) 2008 ruling that all saws must come with a real riving knife (see “Saw Safety”, below), to new designs that have done away with extremely poor fences and underpowered motors, which allows one to get the most out of any saw, without worrying if it will perform what you ask of it.
The first decision regarding buying a table saw is to find the right size that best fits your needs and budget. Here’s a look at the four major categories you’ll find on the market today.
Priced between $200 and $600.
These saws are a far cry the benchtop saws of old, which tended to be were little more than a circular saw turned upside down in a box. The fence systems are now much more sturdy and accurate, and the motors, bearings and drive systems have received considerable upgrades. Jobsite or benchtop saw have two common features: they all have universal motors and are light enough for one person to pick up and carry.
If mobility is a big factor in your table saw purchase, then a jobsite saw is an excellent choice. Jobsite saws are designed to go where you need them, and tend to be a favorite of carpenters. Their compact size makes them easy to stow away when not in use; a big plus for folks with limited shop space. Finally, these saws run off of a standard household outlet, allowing setup anywhere there’s sufficient electrical power, and no need for special wiring.
The jobsite saw’s small size is its strength but also its main weakness. Their small table means they have a limited rip capacity. Some saws have pull out fence rails to allow for a 24-in rip, making kitchen cabinets a possibility. However, balancing a full sheet of plywood on these small tables requires a helper or some added support surfaces. Some people have built a benchtop saw into a bench for added stock support. When the saw is not in use, the blade is retracted and the fence stowed away, leaving the bench open for other work.
To keep weight down, these saws all come with universal motors. A universal motor uses brushes, and tend to be the same type of motors used in hand power tools, like routers and circular saws. Beware of inflated horsepower claims, as it’s unlikely that a 75-lb. saw claims to have more horsepower than a typical full-sized cabinet saw.
Expect these saws to lack the power you’ll find in larger saws with induction motors. They may be capable of cutting 2-in. thick maple, but your feed rate will be greatly reduced.
Rip fences have come a long way on these saws as well. Most lock down front and back and eliminate the deflection that plagued older models. (For more on what to look for in a fence see “Fences”, below).
Look for a jobsite/benchtop saw with a full 3/4” miter gauge slot. These saws often come with poor quality miter gauges. The full sized miter slots will allow you to upgrade to an aftermarket miter gauge if need be.
A jobsite saw can be just the ticket if your budget is as tight as your shop space. What these saws lack in size and power, they make up for in convenience and price.
PROS
• Lightweight, so it’s easy for one person to carry
• Compact size small footprint allows for easy storage
• Mobile, with many models are available with a roll around, fold up cart
• Affordable, ranging from $300 to $600 for a good quality saw (rolling stands are extra)
• Requires no special wiring, only needing a standard 120- volt, 15 amp outlet
CONS
• Low power motors. While universal motors can cut through anything, they may require a very slow feed rate.
• Noisy universal motors, but hearing protection should be worn regardless.
• Small table, which makes it hard to cut sheet stock or long boards
• Limited rip capacity (generally less than 25-in)
• Tend to have small control wheels and knobs
• Limited dado capacity on some saws (1/2- in or less), or the saw can’t take a dado at all.
Priced between $700 and $900
The next size up is the contractor’s saw. Some manufacturers still call it as contactor’s saw, some user the term “contractor style” saw and one brand calls it a “builder’s saw”. Much like the small jobsite and benchtop saws, there great gains have been made in this category of table saw, but this seems to be a shrinking category. For smaller projects, the much more mobile jobsite saw has taken over the professional carpenter market. For larger projects, the hybrid saw is designed to meet the needs of a shop-based saw. As a result, the line has been blurred between what defines a contractor saw and a hybrid saw.
The biggest improvement in newer saws is that most no longer use the old cantilevered motor mount, where the motors hang out the back of the saw. This tended to cause issues if the blade was set for angled cuts, as the motor’s weight could cause the arbor to twist out of alignment with the fence, resulting in a severely burned cut. By mounting the motor under the table and using a sturdier trunnion that won’t go out of alignment, this problem has been eliminated.
PROS
• Cast iron tops absorb unwanted vibrations.
• More powerful induction motors
• Solid, large capacity fence systems are available
• Larger tables can support large stock
• Tend to be only slightly more expensive than the top of the line jobsite saws
• Some models have a built-in mobile base
• Most can also run on a 120-volt, 15-amp circuit
• Will take a full size dado set
• Larger adjustment wheels than a jobsite saw
CONS
• Open stand can make dust collection difficult, so look for models with shrouded blades
• 2hp models may require a dedicated 20-amp circuit for best performance
• Too heavy for one man to lift
*The SawStop Contractor’s Saw costs $1,800, but this saw has many unique features not found on typical contractor’s saws, and is in its own unique category.
Priced between $765 and $1000
These saws are some of the newest on the market. They are in-between contractor saws and cabinet saws, which distinguish them from a contractor saw by having larger cast iron tops, have enclosed or mostly enclosed stands and feature 1-3/4-hp to 2-hp motors. They are smaller than cabinet saws, giving them a bit more flexibility. These saws have the durability, power and accuracy to meet any woodworker’s needs, without the big price tag of a cabinet saw.
PROS
• Larger cast iron tops than your typical contractors saw
• Powerful motors equal to or slightly larger than a typical contractor’s saw
• Full dado capacity
• Some include built-in mobile bases
• Shrouded blades for better dust collection. Be sure to look for 4in ports for best performace.
CONS
• May not hold up as well as a cabinet saw under continuous use
• 2 hp models may require a dedicated 20-amp circuit for 120-volt operation, or a 220-volt circuit for best performance.
Priced between $1,125 and $3,200
If you have the money and space, cabinet saws are the best you can get. There are no compromises to worry about, as these machines feature plenty of power and plenty of cast iron to absorb vibrations. All the great features you could want in a saw are available on a high-quality cabinet saw.
PROS
• All the power you could want
• Lasts a lifetime
CONS
• The most expensive table saws out there
• Mobile bases are available, but these saws are more suited to being a permanent part of a woodshop
Approx. 40,000 emergency room visits every year are tied to table saw accidents., with many of these accidents being life changing events. Safety must be a top consideration in any saw you buy.
SawStop is well known for its flesh sensing blade braking technology that actually stops and removes the blade before serious injury can occur, often being the difference between a nicked finger and a trip to the emergency room. In addition to their ground breaking flesh sensing technology, SawStop saws came with riving knives and other safety features long before any other manufacturers installed those on their models.
A majority of table saw manufacturers have made great strides in saw safety. One conspicuous change is the arrival of the riving knife to America. This is largely due to a 2008 UL ruling that required riving knives on all new table saw models regardless of size. You may still be able to find a table saw out there without a riving knife. If you do, it’ll likely be at a good price. Just walk away, as it’s not worth the risk.
Like its predecessor, the splitter, a riving knife prevents two of the most common causes of kickback:
1. When the stresses in the wood cause the kerf to pinch shut on the spinning blade
2. When the board wanders a bit from the fence and climbs up the back of the spinning blade.
Many riving knives come with a simple snap in feature. Avoid saws that require you to use a separate wrench, as that discourages the use of riving knife, opening one up for a possible accident.
The blade guard has been around for quite some time. It covers the blade, and protects the user’s fingers from accidental contact with the blade while cutting. Old blade guards had splitters instead of a riving knife, which tended to be cumbersome and hard to remove. As a result, many were often set aside, never to be used.
Great strides have been made in the convenience of this important safety feature. Look for a guard that has a tool free-installation. Choose a model with split, clear plastic guards, which you can see through, making it easy to align cuts to a mark on a board. A split guard has two sides that move independently, which is advantageous on angled cuts or when the board is too narrow to support the whole guard.
Look for a saw with a large paddle switch placed within easy reach in case of an emergency.
It’s highly unlikely you’ll lose a finger because of dust, but dust is harmful to breathe, and its powdery natures makes it a serious fire hazard. Try to look for a saw with a shrouded blade and ports for dust collection. The ideal dust collection on a table saw is a split system where dust is collected below the table by a shroud around the blade, and from above through the blade guard.
Most saws come with a left tilt these days. There is a safety benefit to a left tilt when you are using the fence to rip a bevel because the blade tips away from the fence instead of toward the fence. However, most fence systems will now allow you to set the fence a limited distance on the left side of the blade, which allows for safe bevel rips with a right tilt saw. There is no real inherent advantage to a right tilt saw, which why most manufacturers tend to have their saws left tilt.
Most saws today come with a good qaulity fence. Look for one that moves easily and locks securely, with no deflection on the fence when pressure is applied to the face. Also, look for a cursor with good readability that can be adjusted for the slight variations inherent in blade thickness. If you want to rip a board to 3-3/32”, you should be able to set the fence on the mark to make the cut without having to make hit and miss test cuts to get the setting right.
Larger saws give you a choice between a 30” fence and a 52” fence, with the 52” fence being preferred if you have the space.
A good miter gauge will have an adjustable bar to eliminate slop in the miter slot and yield accurate crosscuts. Positive stops, ease of adjustment and all-metal construction are other features to look for in a miter gauge. Some saws come with fairly basic miter gauges, but this often isn’t an issue, as there is a large selection of excellent after market gauges you can buy.
Some saws offer granite tops as an option. Granite tops have a few advantages over cast iron: they won’t rust and they stay flat. Downsides include the fact the granite can get chipped, and devices that use magnets, like feather boards and other jigs, won’t stick to a granite top. Make sure to choose the top that fits your needs as woodworker.
It's very handy to have built-in storage on a tablesaw. Make sure to look for a saw that can store various accessories, such as arbor wrenches, miter gauges, push sticks and extra blades.
Most manufacturers offer a variety of accessories including, extension tables, sliding tables, built-in router lifts and even mobile bases. Accessories made by the manufacturer tend to have the advantage of being designed specifically for their saw so installation and operation tend to go more smoothly.
A table saw is useless without a good blade. Buy a new or refurbish high quality multi-purpose blade. Some saws come with excellent blade. If not, new blades tend to run around 50$, with a good refurbished blade costing around half of that.
A good blade on a poor saw will make better, cleaner cuts than a cheap blade on the most expensive saw. A good blade will likely last you a lifetime and will work just as well on an upgraded saw if there’s one in your future. For jobsite saws, a thin kerf blade is a necessity because it cuts less wood, and thus requires less power from the saw.
If you’re on a budget, consider a refurbished blade. These cost less than new blades, and are as good, if not better a new blade. A great option, especially for otherwise expensive specialty blades.
Choosing the right table saw to be the focus in your shop is something that should be given serious consideration, and we hope that this article gives you a better idea of what you need out of a table saw. Paper and internet research is important, but we suggest coming down to Southern Saw and Cutter, as nothing beats a hands-on comparison, letting you try out the control wheels and fence before you make a purchase.
And check out the accessories and blades that come with the saw, as good blades and accessories add considerable value to a table saw. It’s important to feel out a table saw to make sure everything fits your needs. Remember, a table saw is a long-term purchase, and you need to make sure you don’t end up saddled with something that doesn’t fit your needs.
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